Natural sites on Guadeloupe : Art & Culture

Art & Culture : Natural sites on Guadeloupe

The national park

Saint Claude national park, Guadeloupe 05 90 80 86 00 The park is managed by the National Forest Office (ONF), as the majority of its surface is covered with public forest. The area offers 300 km of footpath (signposted and regularly checked), 10 picnic spots and museums presenting the park’s natural riches (Maison de la Foret, du Volcan..) Situated in the mountains in the heart of Basse-Terre, it expands on over 17 300 hectares, displaying a multitude of forests from more humid (rainforest) to more and more barren landscapes, the latter similar to a savannah. Its atmosphere is mysterious and enchanting, where you may really get the impression to be the first man who has ever trod on these grounds. The forest hosts more than 300 different species of trees, among which the most impressive ones can be found in the rainforest. Several varieties of trees are endangered in the region, and the ONF pays special attention to replant the species that have been over-exploited over the past centuries, such as mahogany, oleander or the jatoba or copal tree.
The rainforest itself is a paradise of exuberant vegetation at all ecological niches. The uppermost levels of the 30-meter-high trees unite in a massive green veil called canopy, home to a unique flora and fauna not found in other layers of the forest.

Slightly below these gigantic trees at an altitude of twenty meters reside more modest, secondary trees which spread their leaves to capture the small fragments of light that pass through the dense layer of the canopy. Further down towards the ground grow younger trees, shrub and fern, as well as tangles of giant roots upholding the majestic trees by ensuring their stability on the humid soil. These roots may sometimes be hollow, “stilt” roots (such as the roots of mangroves), or solid as wooden planks (such as those of the chataignier), and are an impressive sight to see in each case. Climbing through these layers of vegetation are epiphyte plants or creepers, which are not parasitic on their host, growing independently and deriving only physical support. These green or flowering plants and their air roots or lianas greatly contribute to the unique visual atmosphere of the rainforest.

The park’s fauna is relatively less inspiring, as it had originally been less diversified than that of the neighboring continent, and has also been greatly damaged by hunting activity. As a matter of fact, hunting in the region has only been forbidden since the creation of the national park, so scientists expect to see the development of local species in a decade or two. Endemic species to Guadeloupe are the black woodpecker or the Melanerpes Herminieri (Guadeloupe woodpecker), and the Guadeloupe raccoon, which was most probably brought over from the North American continent in the 19th century. Today this little animal (a far cousin of bears by the way) is the symbol of the national park and is extremely popular on Guadeloupe, inspiring many a tourist souvenir. Let’s face it, this little bundle of fur is as cute as can be, and is also quite easily tamed, so there’s no reason why we shouldn’t love it.

Apart from scientific and tourist interest, the park is also the largest reserve of water on the island. A number of Guadeloupe’s most beautiful sites are also situated here, such as the Soufriere or the Carbet Falls, protection of which is ensured by the laws of national parks, in spite of the ever-increasing number of tourists.

The establishment of the national park has brought about the creation of other restricted territories in the region. The nature reserve of Pitons du Nord is situated north of the park and the reserve of Beaugendre to the west. Even though these zones are of a particularly remarkable flora, they remain open to hunting. The reserve of Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin was created to ensure the protection of the coast in the vicinity of Pointe-a-Pitre.

The suburban flora of greater cities is endangered by the development of the agglomeration, which is the case of the mangroves surrounding Pointe-a-Pitre. The sea is also under preservation in these areas, and boat trips are regularly organized by the park to acquaint the public with the menace of pollution and tourism. The Cousteau reserve around the Pigeon Islands was established in order to defend the island’s most beautiful sea beds. In the framework of this project, dead plants have been immerged all around the area to protect the sea flora from the harmful passage of cruise ships and private boats.This was done in order to avoid damage caused in the coral reefs by the great number of anchors planted on the sea bed.

Cities and habitations in the surroundings of the national park also do their best to catch up on the developments of environment protection, especially in the fields of tourist infrastructure and agriculture, with tentatives to reimplant traditional crops to the region (coffee, cocoa and vanilla). These efforts have been financed within the framework of regional and worldwide environment protection schemes, with the participation of Unesco’s biosphere programme.

On the ground. The all time favourite of Basse-Terre’s national park is the raccoon, this cute little mammal which has encountered considerable difficulties being the number one prey of poachers. The yellow-crowned night heron and the American bittern are rare birds in the region, and Basse-Terre’s natural parks have also served as a place of refuge for them, just as for blue pigeons, red-legged partridges and Guadeloupe woodpeckers.

You’re also bound to come across tortoises, iguanas (also on the island of Petite-Terre), and agoutis (huge rodents from the family of rats and rabbits). Birds are less common on the island since the ravage caused by Hurricane Hugo, but some particularly interesting species can still be observed in the natural reserve. Rare birds include seabirds (terns, frigatebirds, brown pelicans), fresh water birds (moorhens, kingfishers) or migrant and non-migrant species of scrub birds (passerines, sparrows). The forest is also home to a great variety of insectivorous birds such as the black woodpecker or the Melanerpes Herminieri (Guadeloupe woodpecker), a species endemic to Guadeloupe. Sea animals include a vast number of different varieties of fish (porcupinefish, butterflyfish, parrotfish, surgeonfish, sergeant major, cherub angel, boxfish…) and invertebrates (sea urchins, sea snails, sea stars..), but the most remarkable and rare beings you will come across are peculiar types of sea turtles. Hunting and poaching have resulted in the extinction of pink flamingoes and sea cows, which are endangered species in the whole of the Caribbean region.

When locals warn you of swarming clouds of mosquitoes, believe them, they are not just trying to be folkloric. These aggressive insects are everywhere, and it is better to be severely armed if you are planning to fight them. After a day or two you’ll definitely be running to the pharmacy to equip yourself with anti-mosquito lotions and cremes, once you’ve experienced the world of difference between the small Metropolitan mosquito burns and their West Indian counterparts.

Another category of insects you’re bound to come across are the eternal cockroaches: harmless though rather disgusting. These black bugs have existed since well before the age of dinosaurs, 350 million years back, and would be the only survivors of an eventual nuclear holocaust: a fact so respectful in itself that it may incite you to have pity on them and let them be. Even though it may disgust you to see them scatter for shelter every time you turn on the lights, they will not do you any harm and it is best not to try to squash them. As a matter of fact, as an American study has shown, cockroaches are more dangerous dead than alive.

Millipedes or “scolopendrium” are to be watched out for, as they are not as docile as they may appear to be. In fact these arthropods are just as malevolent as scorpions, their sting is quite painful and can be extremely dangerous if the animal is of a larger size. There are two well-known methods to ease the pain of millipede-bites: burn them with a cigarette stub or chill them with ice cubes, and see a pharmacist or doctor as soon as possible, especially if the victim is a child or a person susceptible to allergies.

Turtles. All turtles of the Guadeloupean archipelago are protected by French law, it is thus strictly forbidden to capture, transport or sell them or their eggs. Turtles are not as numerous as they used to be in the Caribbean Sea, which is understandable if we consider that during their long and sad history they often served as main ingredient for exotic soup, as funny-looking paperweight or even eggs for the morning’s omelet. Most commercials have now understood the importance of leaving these reptiles to their peace, but it is still possible to come across scale-vendors or food stalls proposing dishes made of turtle meat, however illegal. We would strongly advise you not to buy anything in these shops but rather to help with the protection of the animals. If you happen to find eggs or baby turtles on your way, report them to the Guadeloupe national park (05 90 26 10 58) in the sector of Saint Claude or Baie Mahault (Grand Cul-de_sac-Marin). Among the varieties of turtles still resident on the island are loggerhead sea turtles, olive sea turtles and leatherback turtles which feed on jellyfish and are thus susceptible to die swallowing plastic bags which they take for their preferred meal.

Moss, ground pine (lycopodium) and wild pineapples cover the ground around the Soufriere. The zoological and botanical garden, situated 20 minutes from Pointe-a-Pitre and an hour from Basse-Terre gives a good insight into the island’s flora with its various species of ferns, arecaceae, small-leafed chataigniers, white mahogany, white gum trees, mountain oleander and muira puama, also referred to as “potency wood”. The thick vegetation of the marshland is dominated by the dragon blood tree (Pterocarpus officinalis), supported by its strong palette-shaped spur.

The shrewd wanderer is awaited by yet other marvels: he will discover the mangrove’s giant roots that give the impression it’s on its way somewhere, the chataignier’s webbed roots which were once used to shelter Caribbeans and their barbecues, fiddlewood and its leaves of astonishing symmetrical patterns, the muira puama which is the raw material of wooden floors in Creole houses, and whose bark is ground and used to reinvigorate male sexual appetite.

The mangrove, typical sight of tropical marshlands, is most exuberant on the coast and more specifically in the narrow stretch of land separating Basse-Terre from Grande-Terre., and is a home to red and white mangrove plants, as well as other tropical species such as the obligatory coconut trees, alex palms, ceiba, plumeria, Caesalpinia pulcherrima or “flamboyant” – a favorite of poets and other romantic spirits due to its flashy red flowers – and poisonous mancinella trees and sea grapes near the coast. Multicolored flowers are also sure to delight any metropolitans: hibiscus, bougainvillea, anthurium and other, more widespread species display their vividness and smell.