Culture and way of life : Discover

Discover Guadeloupe

Culture and way of life.

Antillean life swings with the rhythms of yesterday, habits are deeply rooted and continentals must be prepared to observe local customs, which is just as natural as it should be when in another place. Guadeloupe is like Social Security: if anybody attempts to clean things up and start controlling or improving the service, he will automatically find himself in the greatest confrontation with the island’s identity. Traditional ways are not to be altered, whether they are good or bad, and those who undertake such ideals soon find themselves in the state of utmost unpopularity. Mentality on this point is similar to those Corsican stories when continentals sent by the Republic were courteously asked not to stay. Whatever the case, we love these islands, and things do evolve at their own rhythm… fortunately!

Life of the West Indies

The remnants of the islands’ troubled history and memories of slavery days were not enough to wipe the smile off the inhabitant’s faces. Contradictions and misunderstandings are to watch out for, though, and a decent behaviour is the key to being well accepted and welcomed as a tourist. Guadeloupe possesses every ingredient necessary for a permanent night out – colours, heat and music will warm your soul and fill your holidays with celebration. Take special care to calculate your budget, though, in order to avoid unpleasant surprises: be aware that certain products and services can be 40% more expensive in the West Indies than on the mainland.
Life in the Antilles is unimaginable without music, its joyful rhythms fill the streets, busses and sports grounds at any time of day or night. Ragga and zouk are bound to have you swinging in no time: relax and move your feet to these rhythms that express Antillean soul, sentiments, caprice, tenderness and grace. Locals convey their vitality in these rough yet harmonious movements, and you are sure to feel compelled to try your own body in this fury of self-expression.

The carnival period is busy with activity, firecrackers boom, pink confetti cover the streets like orchid petals and the towns bustle with five days of incessant dancing. This bodily liberty is a source of self-expansion for locals, but can be rather frustrating for those who plan to assist in this joyful scene without actually participating.
Ti-punch is also part of the pleasant rites of Antillean life, usually served in a glass bearing the stamp of the great rum distilleries named after century-old Creole families. And though ti-punch recipes vary from one island to another, glasses are filled and re-filled at the same incredible speed wherever you may venture.

Guadeloupe has not yet unveiled all its charms. Chuchotis, madras, rum, rhythms, the West Indies are to be heard, sung and experienced, and not simply visited in order to acquire the obligatory suntan. Leave off relaxation, wander off the beaten track and stop to have a drink and converse with villagers in their picturesque habitations, bound to give you a warm welcome. If you are lost, you are sure to come across someone who will greet you with a smile and direct you on your way. You will also meet joyfully playing children and cows swaying languidly, occasionally glancing at the passing cars and trucks. The memory of these faces will haunt you all your life, adding to the mystery and charm of your vacation on the Antilles. You are bound to appreciate those memorable moments of solitude while gazing into infinity between sun and sea, into the depths of the multicoloured ocean. These islands are a perfect location for wandering around in enchantment, marvelling at the rare and majestic trees that make up these unique forest landscapes that will delight any solitary dreamer. Sentimental types will find themselves in perpetual time travel, lost between past and present, in this permanent undertow of the Antilles’ true rhythm. As a matter of fact, whatever we do here is a joy in itself: the pleasures of idleness, tenacity, meeting, music, of conversing, jumping, tasting, breathing, touching, uniting or separating, the pleasures of living free. Life swings with the rhythms of yesterday, habits are deeply rooted and continentals must be prepared to observe local customs, which is just as natural as it should be when away from home. Guadeloupe is like Social Security: if anybody attempts to clean things up and start controlling or improving the service, he will automatically find himself in the greatest confrontation with the island’s identity. Traditional ways are not to be altered, whether they are good or bad, and those who undertake such ideals soon find themselves in the state of utmost unpopularity. Mentality on this point is similar to those Corsican stories when continentals sent by the Republic were courteously asked not to stay. Whatever the case, we love these islands, and things do evolve at their own rhythm… fortunately!

Women

Antillean women are sometimes taken for being haughty and aggressive, but in reality are rather original and friendly and all you need is an open mind to be able to get on well with them. They dress in innovative ways, adding their own personal touch to their clothes however classic, which gives them an air of elegance and style. Though their manners may bear the influence of the island’s tumultuous past, today’s girls and women are of an optimistic mentality, ambitiously striving to achieve a better future. Certain Antillean women have managed to break free from prejudice and machist tradition and have gained considerable recognition for their talent. Some names to remember are: Maryse Condé, Marie-José Alie, Tania Saint-Val, Jocelyne Béroard, Mounia, Simone Schwartz-Bart.

Men

Men in the West Indies go to extremes when it comes to pleasing women, just as their counterparts would on any latitude line. Though younger men may be slightly on the insistent side, they are more relaxed and considerate later on with age, especially after marriage… which does not make them less obliging and helpful. Ladies will definitely not remain with a flat tyre for more than a couple of minutes, which is a behaviour you will definitely savour when arriving from the mainland. Remember, with a bit of humour, everything works out just fine.

"Metros"

Relationships between Metropolitans and Antilleans are not really of a conflicting nature, but are more characteristic for being tolerant than actually affectionate. In “mixed” areas, Antilleans stick together and Metros also form their own colonies, they hardly ever interfere or dialogue with each other. Antilleans do not trust Metros, sometimes even to the extent of despising them, as they are considered invaders on the island. Bekes, the legitimate descendants of colonists are regarded in a similar manner, though interestingly enough tend to be more accepted by Antilleans, even though their ways may be more hostile than those of the Metropolitan population. Metros often find themselves behind a wall when trying to establish a dialogue with locals, which is also the case for the tourists, as they are considered closer to Metropolitans than to Antilleans. Relations are thus usually limited to what is professional and economic, which is a pity, but unfortunately, history can not be re-written.

Family

“In Antillean families, there is one child for each love story”. As a result of divers influence and beliefs, Guadeloupean women often live surrounded by their children of different parentage, each of whom are acknowledged by their own fathers. This is by no means unusual on this island, and it works both ways, it is thus typical to be a father of several children of differing mothers. Families are organised around the knowledge of these facts with mutual respect and very little conflict. As the island is greatly religious, contraception and abortion are not in the mentality of its population, and families grow as life takes its roads. Locals who introduce you to their siblings will no doubt acquaint you with further information about whether or not they come from the same father and mother.

Housing

Guadelopean architecture bears the mark of various influences and is deeply rooted in history and society. The beautiful mansions of the colonial period are well maintained and often serve as museums. As a matter of fact the builders of these enormous houses were the very first to use more robust materials for construction than the wooden planks employed by local marine carpenters who had ruled the architectural style of the island for generations.
The traditional house is of square shape, around 5 to 6 m long on each side (or 3 for the smaller ones), and is fitted with several doors shaded by wooden shutters. Its roof is generally made of corrugated iron, slightly tilted to ensure the proper evacuation of water during great downpours. The house is inhabited by its owner, who is often a tenant on the land surrounding his habitation. The majority of these Creole houses are built on a very simple and typical model, sometimes similar to the architecture of working class areas. It is thus interesting to observe the mix in style between these houses and those of the richer population, who often juxtapose traditional and colourful Creole architecture with contemporary trends. Reminders of other eras also stand their ground at certain places, beautiful residences of planters and forts which once protected the English, Dutch or Spanish colonies can be observed at various locations. Don’t miss Fort Delgres in the bay of Basse-Terre, Fort de l’Olive in the territory of Vieux-Bourg, Fort Union, Fort Fleur d’Epee in Ponte-a-Pitre, most of which have been converted to museums. The modern and functional hotels of the coast are usually not an interesting sight to see, and their industrial style is miles away from the beauty of their surroundings.

Dance

Antilleans are exceptional dancers, displaying a certain “gene” that Metros will confirm not to be in possession of. The mysterious energy of the ever-present music pumps through their veins and gives way to a great variety of rhythms: bel-air, biguine, calenda, mazurka, waltz…and of course zouk and colle-serre. As anybody living on the island will tell you, there is no occasion that is not a party occasion in the West Indies. And let’s face it: it is by far easier for ladies to experience the “secret” of Antillean rhythms than it is for men… sirs, take a deep breath and let your ladies go.

Mourning

Death and its surrounding myths are of considerable importance, given the quantity of religious traditions and beliefs. The cult of death is way more emphasised here than on the mainland, you will even come across shops selling specialised mourning outfits and equipment.

Feasts and celebrations

Antilleans delve in any form of social life. The institution of the family is the basis of West Indian society and celebrations are a great occasion for animated reunions. Christmas and the New Year are characterised by enormous meals spent in the company of family and friends, where dishes are usually based on pork. The rest of the year hosts a significant number of improvised celebrations and cultural events, which are sure to delight tourists just as they are a source of energy for locals. Don’t resist and participate in these vibrant parties under the tropical sun.

The carnival

By all means the greatest event of the year, it begins on the Sunday after Epiphany and terminates on Ash Wednesday. Days and nights are filled with frenzy and joy, and colourful costumes of romantic or modern, sexy or naïve style fill the specialised stores. The soaring imagination of the participants is displayed by these glistening disguises and atmosphere is simply everywhere. The carnival is the time of year when we shed all frustration, and forget even whether we are Black or White, Beke or mulatto. Hiding behind our masks we can take it easy and enjoy being together with everyone without actually getting more deeply involved with them. The Carnival King is called Vaval, a manifestation of evil, who is to be burned at the end of the celebration.

All Saints and the culture of death

Cemeteries and tombs are revived and cleaned to a shine one week before All Saints, only to be covered with the greatest number of candles imaginable of the eve of the celebration. Locals feast with their ancestors, bring them food and rum, to be consumed on spot. The beautiful and haunting sight of a million candles naturally attracts tourists and their cameras, though it is polite to ask permission before taking pictures, and flashes are not recommended. Death is celebrated with the help of professional storytellers, connoisseurs of ancient tales and traditions, exorcists of pagan and Christian duality. The deceased and his family and neighbours reside inside the house, and friends gather outside to accompany his soul to eternal peace. The storyteller recites fables and tales of rabbits, cattle, pigs and elephants, and the “gro ka” (or gwo ka) sings ancient songs and beats on his tambour. Life is retold in the form of a joyful tale, excessive gests and interminable laughter.

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