Natural sites on Martinique : Art & Culture

Art & Culture on Martinique : Natural sites

REGIONAL NATURAL PARK

The particularity of this park is that it is not laid out on one sole block of land, but is fractioned between the north-west and the south by a transversal drain which includes Fort de France. These two main regions are complemented by the Caravelle peninsula in the central-eastern part on the island, which, along with Saint Anne, was the first land formation of the island eighteen million years ago. The park stretches out over a total surface of 700 km2, which accounts for more than two thirds of Martinique’s total territory. Its composing sites are thus as diverse as can be, from tropical forest to the denticulate south east coast with its Savannah and Cape Saline, as well as the resorts of Diamant and Saint Anne, or Mount Pelee.

THE FOREST

The island’s tropical forest is one of its most sought-after attractions, playing an active part in Martinique’s sunny destination profile. It is one of the island’s major assets, attracting a whole different batch of tourists involved in the green tourism industry in full development. The public is asked to remain watchful and responsible when in the area, as it is unique and meant to be preserved for future generations. Information campaigns such as “Forest schools” are organised by the Ministry of Agriculture and the ONF (National Forest Office) to communicate the importance of the protection of this diverse forest, a wonder for scientists and tourists alike. So put away your towels and sun cream and enter this magical world of age-old trees, colours, fragrances and splendid waterfalls concealed within imposing cliffs… In order to ensure a higher protection for flora, fauna, landscapes, geology and forest population, the state has established national biological reserves, where people - especially tourists- are forbidden to tread. Three such reserves have been created in the area: the reserve of Mount Pelee (1540 ha), the reserve of the Peaks of Carbet (1330 ha) and the reserve of Mt Jacob and the valley of the Lorrain (1330 ha).

ANSE DUFOUR

Anse Dufour is a preserved little creek where a couple of fishermen draw out their nets in the middle of the afternoon (often aided by charmed tourists), usually displaying a considerable amount of fish. The cove is a real delight for divers but also for the simple bather: put on a mask and a tuba and you will experience a whole new world of flashy, underwater colours. Anse Noire, a lovely little beach with no more infrastructure than a carbet, is accessible from Anse Dufour by a stroll of five to ten minutes.

LE DIAMANT

Le Diamant is a commune much debated upon by pre-Columbian archaeologists. Excavations have confirmed the existence of human habitations in this location from as early as the 4th century, and marvellous pieces of earthenware have been found and exhibited in the departmental museum of Prehistory and Archaeology in Fort de France. Most notable ones are an anthropomorphic bowl, a vase used for keeping ouicou (a drink obtained by the fermentation of sweet potato or the pulp of manioc roots), and a piece of pottery with a Barrancoid head (Barrancoid denoting a civilisation which appeared in the 8th century B.C.).
Colonists began to arrive in the area around the end of the 17th century, and built a church in 1684. The most famous incident of the colonial period is linked to the village of O’Mullane (notably the house of Gaoule), and its Diamond Rock (le Diamant), whose inhabitants organised the first open rebellion against Metropolitan guardianship in 1717.
Unhappy with the royal executive compelling them to conduct commerce solely with France, the planters kidnapped Governor La Varenne and administrator Ricouart, representatives of the king of France from a common meal served at the house of Gaoule, and hauled them on board a ship heading for La Rochelle and Versailles.
The 176-meter rock itself was seized by the English in 1804, with the objective of establishing a military base there, similarly to that of Gibraltar, in order to reinforce security in the Saint Lucia canal. Their efforts proved in vain, though, and Admiral Villeneuve rapidly dislodged their army and the two opposing sides abandoned the project for good. Today the area is an excellent location for scuba diving and swimming, with a great variety of exotic fish and other sea creatures. Waves are high and quite frequent, so be prepared for strong emotions. Venturing alone on the Rock is forbidden, due to the significant number of snakes that call it their home.
The main street is lined with palm trees and runs alongside the sea, displaying unevenly built, square-shaped, wooden houses with corrugated iron or slate roofs: the typical image of Caribbean town scenery. Behind this picturesque aspect, though, lies a more sordid reality of poverty and economic difficulties.
Streets are often narrow and in deplorable condition, lined with ditches destined to evacuate water trickling down from the hill: watch your step, especially at night! On the church square, chorals are sung on Sunday morning and fruit and vegetable markets attract tourists and locals alike, offering bananas, papaws, avocadoes and mangoes galore. Le Diamant is a town where locals enjoy life, owing to the beauty of its beaches and the quasi calmness that prevails due to the fact that the tourist industry is still in a moderate phase. The name Diamant (“Diamond”) was most probably given to this part of the island owing to the image of the small island plunging into the water, which was the first part of town which received this name in baptism.

SAINTE LUCE

FORET DE MONTRAVAIL.

Monesie. This magnificent domain is a veritable slice of paradise for lovers of nature. Taking a trail down one of its signposted paths, you will discover rocks and cliffs with Caribbean carvings of the times before Columbus.

From Riviere PiloTe to Marin

A splendid coastal road, offering marvellous views of the rocky coastline. Approaching Riviere-Pilote, your eyesight will be drawn towards the enormous megalithic rock which marks the entry of the village.

Le Marin

Marin is a veritable tourist attraction, due to its unique exposure between Caribbean and Atlantic. Visitors to the village can enjoy the beach of sea and ocean, with its deep bay, fit to host boat and ship moorings, and which welcomes increasing international traffic each year. Summer months are animated by a local festival, alternating with the biennale “Marin Village”.

Peak of Crève-Cœur

Climb the peak of Creve-Coeur, this beautiful hill in a choice environment, just a few kilometres from Martinique’s most splendid beaches. Take the D9 in the direction of Sainte Anne for about 3 km, turning at the Cap Chevalier for a further 1 km. Take a right turn here, and continue for 2 km along the dirt road. There is a parking area at this point, where you will need to get out of your car and begin your ascent towards the peak culminating at 200m. A first lovely viewpoint will acquaint you with the island’s southern peninsula. Further off, still in the direction of Sainte Anne, a string of tiny bays awaits you offering a wonderful opportunity to take a quick swim and regain full energy.

LE CARBET

Carbet village is also an interesting site from the geological point of view, most particularly in the sector of Riviere Blanche. The rocks which form the Carbet peaks are made of quartzite, black biotite and hypersthene (rust-coloured rectangular rods): a spectacular sight to see.
The canal of Beauregard is a circuit of about 2 hours on foot, alongside an irrigation channel constructed in the 18th century, also referred to as the canal of slaves. On entering Carbet, take the CD 62 towards the right, and you will find the trail signposted yellow and white after approximately 2 km. You can also start off from Fond Saint Denis, where you will have considerably less difficulties parking your car.

ANSE TURIN

Anse Turin is accessible through a tunnel departing from Saint Pierre. The region is characterised by beautiful steep ochre cliffs. The road winds parallel to the sea, on a quasi-straight coast with no creeks or bays, only faraway horizons. Beaches include that of Paisinniers, Anse-Turin, opposite the museum entrance, and Le Coin.

FROM PRECHEUR TO GRAND RIVIERE

Off the beaten track towards Grand Riviere stands Caritan House, marking the spot for the beginning of a pretty walk through the island’s northern parts. To find your way around, refer to the departmental map of hiking and excursion itineraries. The forest is the dwelling place of a specific fauna unique to this region of Martinique, with animals such as iguanas, Alsophis antillensis (grass snakes) or dynastes (beetles). Paths are numerous, varying from more difficult ones for experienced hikers, to easier trails for those in favour of a pleasant walk to enjoy nature’s calm at their own rhythm. If you are a sportsperson, try the track from Precheur to Grand Riviere, the longest and most beautiful excursion on Martinique. Be sure to be in good physical condition and of outstanding stamina, as the circuit is more than 20 km long (approximately 5 to 6 hours’ walk), with fabulous views and exotic trees of cacao, coffee and mango.
At the “Grande Savane”, you will come across the island’s most thrilling places of interest: bubbling hot springs breaking forth from the steaming earth. This is probably the most popular walking path, appreciated for its bays, creeks and charming wildness. For the return trip, hikers can catch a ride in a fishing skiff by calling the Grand Riviere tourist office (05 96 55 73 74) in order to make a reservation.
The road leading to Grand Riviere and Anse Couleuvre is a magical landscape of ebony rocks and imposing waves that often mount as high as the road itself. Further north the rocky coast gives way to massive cliffs before arriving to Anse Ceron, a popular surfing spot due to its regular high waves spreading out from the north towards the south. This spot is not recommended for beginners. Anse Ceron itself is a site of extraordinary beauty with wide alleys and tall coconut trees; don’t miss out on Ceron Estate, beginning at the “zamana” tree.
Historically speaking, one of Ceron’s pretty coves figures already in 1658 chronicles and subsequently appears on an English map dating from 1775. The vast beach stretches out along the RD10 (departmental road) on the Caribbean coast, with a paved road leading to Anse Couleuvre from where you can embark on a splendid walk on foot or by boat as far as Grand Riviere.

The Lamentin mangrove

Martinique’s mangrove is one of the vastest ones of the Lesser Antilles, covering the major part of the island’s 350 km coast. A large portion of this rich ecological zone is situated in Lamentin, 90% of whose seaside is enveloped in thick mangrove, sheltering the majority of marine fauna, an essential link in the food chain.
Fish and crustaceans choose this location as resting place before regaining the deeper sea and finally the ocean. Red and black mangrove trees are rooted deep in the water, accustomed to breathing in the sea’s brackish waters, forming a sort of natural barrier which pushes deeper and deeper each year into the sea.
The mangrove can be discovered by kayak through certain service providers, refer to the Leisures section for further details.

LE FRANCOIS

Leaving Francois, the sole natural décor is constituted by banana trees. Take the road in the direction of Vauclin (12 km), then follow the signs to Bois Soldat on the D16. The Clement Estate can be reached from Francois on turning right towards Saint Esprit. You should definitely not miss out on this spot if you are looking for that compulsory adventure of the famous white seabed, pleasant boat ride and obligatory taste of punch in an idyllic setting, before moving on to a succulent meal on one of the smaller isles.

MACOUBA

The road sign welcoming you to Macouba is hidden in the town’s luxurious vegetation. A small estate of a few wooden houses built in the Creole style greets you on arrival, leading you into a hamlet of small cottages on the side of the road.
This is about all there is to this town; the rustic atmosphere lacks all tourist infrastructures, except maybe a Leader Price and a Crosonok grocery down the road to Lorrain.
Leaving the village towards Grand Riviere the plants thicken into an impressive scenery of greenery, abrupt cliffs and deep valleys (the valley of the Macouba River).
This is by far the island’s wildest area, so stop a moment to take it all in from the lookout point to the right, directly above the sea, accessible by a number of stairs but definitely worth the climb for the incredible view on the path meandering deep into dense vegetation.
The road will also lead you through a couple of metal bridges looking more dangerous than they actually are: experience rare moments of the Camel Trophy or Raiders of the Lost Arc on these adventurous-looking structures.
Nights are rather noisy in these parts, due to the incessant croaking of frogs and such creatures, singing loud songs that make the south’s crickets seem a pleasant lullaby.

Fonds St Denis

Deep inland, far from sea and busy traffic lies Fond Saint Denis, Martinique’s greenest town, nested in a chlorophyllous botanic environment. Despite the lush vegetation, the town lacks population and loses more and more of its natives to bigger cities due to lack of activity and entertainment facilities. A small number of tourists do tend to spend some time here, though, taking advantage of the fresh climate and beautiful natural environment, best viewable from a tiny wooden bridge at the end of a small but steep flight of stairs.
The path departing from Deux Choux soon transforms into a difficult track of gorges and waterfalls, with a sheer cliff reaching all the way up to the sky. A pretty little village is perched on the hillside between Trace and Saint Pierre: a spectacular sight as are the farms in its vicinity, wrapped in dense, flowery nature. Colours adorn the church as well as the cemetery, and the main square, named after Jules Pain, the former mayor is a lovely sight to see. The memorial stone opposite the church also bears its own title: it is the smallest commemorative plaque ever erected in France.

AJOUPA BOUILLON

The waterfall of Saut Gendarme

The spot’s funny-sounding name supposedly originates from a certain mounted policeman who slipped and fell into the depths of the waterfall while trying to climb it. An ideal picnic spot, the area is also perfect for a shorter walk in the heart of the forest. Water is everywhere here, which accounts for the exuberant flora, and is also a plus for thirsty hikers. The waterfall is more than ten meters high, and is a magnificent site to ponder upon, situated a kilometre from the crossroads of Deux Choux in the direction of Fonds Saint Denis on the D1. The river can be rather dangerous in the rainy season, and can cover a part of or sometimes the whole road at certain spots. Trails towards Mount Pelee pass through the Trianon route or the Calebasse volcano, and the walk to Saut Babin is also an interesting one. Prepare good hiking equipment as the road is rather steep, and requires excellent physical condition.

Mount Pelee

Mount Pelee is the highest point on the island, and as such is highly respected and feared by inhabitants. It has also become a top tourist attraction, welcoming an increasing number of travellers each year. Sights include a contemporary stone fountain mounted upon a metallic structure, facing the mountain right after the Auberge of Mount Pelee. A path leading to the summit also departs from here, and climbing to the top is without major difficulties in good weather (turn back in case of an approaching storm), and the panorama is obviously a wonderful experience.